The trials and tribulations of a troubled herper – early springing in Attica and the Peloponnese | Trip reports

By Plato Stefanopoulos

Chapter 1: a strong start

Going out in the field and targeting snakes and glass lizards again felt so surreal to me as I was driving down the freeway, since it had been such a long time since I’d actually done it. It was a long winter but on that warm February 7th, while my hopes were low, I figured I should still shoot my shot. While I was at some dirt roads, still miles away from my hiking spot, I passed by this site and instantly remembered it, as I had found two juvenile trilineata there last year. I pulled over, put my gloves on, and started looking. Since the first good rocks didn’t produce anything, my hopes diminished, but as I nonchalantly flipped an unassuming, small rock, I was greeted by HER. An adult female Eastern Montpellier snake was one of my biggest targets for this year, and this meter-long woman was just what I needed to see as my first snake of 2022.

Adult female Malpolon in her extremely open and degraded habitat

Still covered in mud, it is not completely unlikely that this was one of, if not her first day out of brumation.

After letting the snake go after a few (hundred) pics, I proceeded to search at the rest of my sites at the area, and I found numerous ocellated skinks, juniper skinks, heard calling frogs, and I also flipped a juvenile Pseudopus!

Pseudopus apodus juvenile in habitat. This was an animal I had wanted to photograph for the longest time and I'm extremely grateful I had the opportunity to do so.

Macro of the same lizard

Typical adult ocellated skink

Late winter, or more generously “early spring”, is an intriguing time of year to say the least, and before I went on that faithful outing in Southern Attica, I had already noticed the big changes; calling frogs, the first blooming wildflowers, the longer days and the subsequent emergence of healthy reptiles generally marks the humble beginning of the herping season. It is by no means an ideal time of year to be looking for snakes, as while there may be warm fronts, there still is a lot of cold weather and most reptiles dare not venture more than a few meters from their hibernacula. This early-mid February warm front marked the first half-decent herping of the year.

Chapter 2: sunburnt in February 

The warm weather reached a distinct peak in mid-February, and I took full advantage of the circumstances. On the first of two sessions, I met up with Charis and we went to southern Attica again and did some tedious but rewarding habitat hiking, as we eventually did find an adult Eastern Montpellier snake that had just emerged. We also found numerous common herps such as ocellated skinks, juniper skinks, green toads, courting tortoises and even an immaculate little tree frog. Much to our dismay, we did not find a glass lizard, which was our main target.

Very pale adult female ocellated skink in its very open habitat

Typical adult male ocellated skink (Picture by Charis Kouelis)

Large female Montpellier snake in situ. she sucked back into her hole immediately after this photo was taken despite our best efforts not to disturb her (Picture by Charis Kouelis) 

A young green toad (Picture by Charis Kouelis)

An immaculate tree frog (Picture by Charis Kouelis)

Two days passed and I was out again, this time in Central Attica and in some honestly strange habitat. Perhaps the best way to label it would be as “Mediterranean savannah”. The habitat was an extremely open and surprisingly wet grassland with scattered trees, mastic shrubs and kermes oaks, refuges and temporary waters. I had been there before in the summer and I was planning to visit it in a better time of year. The temperature peaked at 21C, it was hot and dry out, and I actually got sunburnt and dizzy, something that’s normally unheard of in February. I mainly flipped and hiked habitat, but regrettably, no snakes were found. That being said, I did find lots of other herps and ended up leaving with many pictures that I liked. Perhaps the highlight of the day was a really good looking adult trilineata that (embarrassingly enough) slipped right out of my hands before I could even take pictures.

Huge male ocellated skink. Most of them were massive at that site for whatever reason.

Green toad eggs

Same 

Adult male margie looking for females

Gravid female green toad

playing hide and seek with a female margie

Chapter 3: the Achaea fiasco

With the coming of March, terrible events in my personal life, as well as the horrible state of the world, my eagerness to finally take a trip to get my mind off of things peaked and no sooner had I thought that than I booked a room in Achaea. The weather was pretty bad (9-14C and rainy), but knowing the quality of the area even in the winter, I still expected to take photos of at least a few snakes. Regrettably, that is not at all how things went.

Packing my bags for the first time in 2022

Upon arrival, I flipped a trusty piece and found a beautiful juvenile Greek slow worm under it. I thought this was probably a good omen, but alas, as it would turn out, it was not.

Juvenile Anguis graeca

Same

I proceeded to visit several of my typical hiking and flipping spots, with an escaped juvenile Hierophis being the only snake reward of my endeavors. Nevertheless, I did find numerous common herps and took a few minutes of my time to at least try to get some decent shots.

Greek smooth newt (one of over two dozen)

Lacerta trilineata juvenile, uniform morph

Striped morph

Mediodactylus kotschyi - my first ever reptile found via peeking behind bark

Greek smooth newt found under a log

I ended the day with some night cruising in and around the known spadefoot site and I actually did find one, most likely a female with eggs, and I helped it cross. That was probably the highlight of the day. I also saw several badgers and jackals crossing the roads, which is always enjoyable.

Pelobates balcanicus chloeae - a very high-profile and endangered taxon in need of more protection

I slept in on day 2 and went to some flip sites. Sadly, they were flooded, and on top of that, it started raining heavily so I gave up and just waited until sundown to do a little frogging. My night cruising session was very action-packed, the rain brought tons of animals out, especially amphibians, and I cruised over a hundred live frogs and toads, as well as some other downright weird stuff.

Road cruised a crab (Potamon cf. pelops)

A glowing tree frog

One more Pelo!

One more Hyla!

(in my opinion) my best Bufotes shot of the trip

Bufotes collection. These are some of the individuals found across two nights.

The only certain Pelophylax kurtmuelleri I photographed (alive). The one on the left has a very interesting aberrant dorsal stripe.

Ambiguous Pelophylax. Most likely P. epeiroticus with some (most likely unnecessary) hybrid suspicions

My favorite epeiroticus pic of the trip

More Pelophylax epeiroticus. An interesting side note; the two big ones were found literally inside villages.

3 more tree frogs

On day 3, I woke up late, checked out, and briefly hiked and flipped a couple sites close to the hotel, though I only saw some Ionian and Balkan green lizards which I sadly could not photograph. After I left, I figured I should make a couple stops at random sites I found on google earth that were on the way. The first one was a really wet abandoned olive grove with tons of bramble, several abandoned buildings and seemingly endless refuges. The only herps I found, however, were a couple of Hermann’s tortoises.

Pelophylax epeiroticus (in habitat for a change)

Experimental shot of a T. hermannii male

A flawless adult female Testudo hermannii

The second site I stopped at looked extremely productive – a huge, dry aggregation of artificial cover next to a flooded area with calling green toads. I thought this was going to be it – I was finally going to get my hands on a snake, but alas, I was aggressively kicked out by a farmer from a nearby property and aggressive guard dogs. I was absolutely defeated, and after a half-hearted attempt to find another site nearby, I started the long, shameful drive home. As if I hadn’t gotten myself in enough regrettable situations already, I almost ran out of gas on the way and had to get a partial refill in Isthmia.

All in all, this trip was terrible, but looking back, I did sort of have fun in a strange, almost masochistic way. In any case, I thought that things would only go uphill from that point, which was far, far from the case.

Chapter 4: heart of ice (epilogue)

Much to everyone’s dismay, March was in no way, shape or form the idyllic transitional month of high 60s temps and partly cloudy skies that we had in mind, rather, it was cold. So cold, in fact, that it snowed! Right as I got home we received overnights in the negative C, and we just kept getting hammered by cold fronts (the worse being labeled “Phillip”). What would normally have been an enjoyable herping month turned out to be essentially a complete waste. As the weather warms up, only time will tell the what effects these extreme circumstances will render.

Species seen:

Balkan frog (Pelophylax kurtmuelleri)
Epirus water frog (Pelophylax epeiroticus)
European tree-frog (Hyla arborea
Chloe's spadefoot (Pelobates balcanicus chloeae)
Green toad (Bufotes viridis)
Greek smooth newt (Lissotriton graecus)
Hermann's tortoise (Testudo hermanni)
Marginated tortoise (Testudo marginata)
European glass lizard (Pseudopus apodus)
Greek sloworm (Anguis graeca)
Balkan green lizard (Lacerta trilineata)
Ionian wall lizard (Podarcis ionicus)
Kotschy's gecko (Mediodactylus kotschyi)
Ocellated skink (Chalcides ocellatus)
Snake-eyed skink (Ablepharus kitaibelii)
Eastern montpellier snake (Malpolon insignitus)
Balkan whip snake (Hierophis gemonensis)